| When travelers think of historic Italian | | | | Using the complimentary hotel bicycles, |
| cities, they often think of Florence, | | | | we were able to bike to the Balloon |
| Rome, and Venice. But for those who | | | | Festival. |
| know the real Italy, there are other | | | | The region of Emilia Romagna is known |
| incalculable riches. One such treasure | | | | world-wide for its food, and our dinner |
| is the town of Ferrara, protected by | | | | at the Big Night Ristorante (+39 0532 |
| UNESCO on the World Cultural Heritage | | | | 242 367), a restaurant that shares an |
| list as a priceless example of a living, | | | | entrance and collaborative relationship |
| breathing work of Renaissance art. | | | | with the hotel, was no exception. We |
| A vast portion of the town survives from | | | | ate a crostata salata di ricotta, which |
| the middle ages and in the off-season, | | | | is a ricotta pie topped with grilled |
| before the arrival of eager tourists, a | | | | radicchio. This was followed by |
| quiet morning walk in the pedestrian | | | | pasticcio di macaroni alla ferrarese con |
| center along the cobble-stoned streets | | | | tartufo, a wonderful macceroni pasta |
| and brick and stone palazzos will bring | | | | with truffles covered by paper thin and |
| you back hundreds of years to a less | | | | crispy pasta dough. Our second course |
| complicated existence. Now picture a | | | | was filetto di manzo in crosta con punte |
| crisp cool day in September and try to | | | | asparagi, crema di Roquefort profumato |
| imagine the sky above that beautiful | | | | al tartufo nero, which is a beef fillet |
| city filled with the dancing colors of | | | | in pastry with white asparagus tips, a |
| hot air balloons. First one, then five, | | | | hint of Roquefort and black truffles. |
| twenty, then thirty. | | | | All dishes melted in our mouths and were |
| Alex and I braved an actual take-off, | | | | some of the finest I have tasted. The |
| but even from the ground, the festival | | | | entire dinner was topped off with a |
| is filled with sights and sounds that | | | | chocolate masterpiece, dolcetto di |
| most of us are not used to experiencing | | | | cioccolato fondente con crema alla |
| in every day life. Imagine a flaccid | | | | vaniglia, gelato di pistachio e curry |
| piece of colored parachute-like | | | | indiano. If you can picture this, it |
| material, slowly inflating to a balloon | | | | was a warm chocolate cupcake with a |
| the size of a three story building and | | | | liquid center, with vanilla cream, |
| then float off into the sky amid the | | | | homemade pistachio ice cream and Indian |
| sound and sight of the flaming forced | | | | curry. It would be the one food I would |
| air entering it. Let's face it, your | | | | request should I have the misfortune to |
| adrenaline is going even if you are not | | | | find myself on death-row some day. The |
| one the lucky ones to take a celestial | | | | chef, Fabio Zanella, is sure to have |
| journey. It's not necessary to wait | | | | been scooped up an aggressive hotelier |
| until next year. Ferrara has many other | | | | somewhere else in the world, were it not |
| sites, none of which should be missed. | | | | for the fact that he was born and bred |
| But should you decide to combine your | | | | in Ferrara and reluctant to leave. |
| trip with the experience of the | | | | Ferrara has many other sites, none of |
| magnificent "mongolfiere," the hot air | | | | which should be missed. They include La |
| balloons will be waiting for you next | | | | Pinacoteca Nazionale (The National |
| September. | | | | Picture Gallery), a home for a panorama |
| Our favorite hotel is Hotel Ferrara | | | | of paintings from the mediaeval era to |
| (+39) 0532-20.50.48, in the historical | | | | the 18th century and many other |
| center in the main piazza overlooking | | | | beautiful museums. The most |
| the Castello Estense an imposing 14th | | | | heart-rendering, however, and one not to |
| century castle and the symbol of power | | | | be missed by those exploring their |
| and refinement of the historical | | | | Jewish heritage is that of the Jewish |
| presence of Ferrara. There could be no | | | | Ghetto, beautifully preserved with its |
| better base for a visit of the town. | | | | three synagogues. |