| When travelers think of historic Italian
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| | complimentary hotel bicycles, we were
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| cities, they often think of Florence,
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| | able to bike to the Balloon Festival.
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| Rome, and Venice. But for those who know
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| | The region of Emilia Romagna is known
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| the real Italy, there are other
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| | world-wide for its food, and our dinner
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| incalculable riches. One such treasure
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| | at the Big Night Ristorante (+39 0532 242
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| is the town of Ferrara, protected by
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| | 367), a restaurant that shares an
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| UNESCO on the World Cultural Heritage
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| | entrance and collaborative relationship
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| list as a priceless example of a living,
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| | with the hotel, was no exception. We ate
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| breathing work of Renaissance art.
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| | a crostata salata di ricotta, which is a
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| A vast portion of the town survives from
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| | ricotta pie topped with grilled
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| the middle ages and in the off-season,
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| | radicchio. This was followed by
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| before the arrival of eager tourists, a
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| | pasticcio di macaroni alla ferrarese con
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| quiet morning walk in the pedestrian
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| | tartufo, a wonderful macceroni pasta with
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| center along the cobble-stoned streets
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| | truffles covered by paper thin and crispy
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| and brick and stone palazzos will bring
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| | pasta dough. Our second course was
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| you back hundreds of years to a less
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| | filetto di manzo in crosta con punte
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| complicated existence. Now picture a
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| | asparagi, crema di Roquefort profumato al
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| crisp cool day in September and try to
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| | tartufo nero, which is a beef fillet in
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| imagine the sky above that beautiful city
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| | pastry with white asparagus tips, a hint
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| filled with the dancing colors of hot air
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| | of Roquefort and black truffles.
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| balloons. First one, then five, twenty,
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| | All dishes melted in our mouths and were
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| then thirty.
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| | some of the finest I have tasted. The
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| Alex and I braved an actual take-off, but
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| | entire dinner was topped off with a
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| even from the ground, the festival is
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| | chocolate masterpiece, dolcetto di
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| filled with sights and sounds that most
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| | cioccolato fondente con crema alla
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| of us are not used to experiencing in
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| | vaniglia, gelato di pistachio e curry
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| every day life. Imagine a flaccid piece
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| | indiano. If you can picture this, it was
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| of colored parachute-like material,
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| | a warm chocolate cupcake with a liquid
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| slowly inflating to a balloon the size of
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| | center, with vanilla cream, homemade
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| a three story building and then float off
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| | pistachio ice cream and Indian curry. It
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| into the sky amid the sound and sight of
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| | would be the one food I would request
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| the flaming forced air entering it.
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| | should I have the misfortune to find
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| Let's face it, your adrenaline is going
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| | myself on death-row some day. The chef,
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| even if you are not one the lucky ones to
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| | Fabio Zanella, is sure to have been
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| take a celestial journey. It's not
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| | scooped up an aggressive hotelier
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| necessary to wait until next year.
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| | somewhere else in the world, were it not
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| Ferrara has many other sites, none of
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| | for the fact that he was born and bred in
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| which should be missed. But should you
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| | Ferrara and reluctant to leave.
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| decide to combine your trip with the
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| | Ferrara has many other sites, none of
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| experience of the magnificent
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| | which should be missed. They include La
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| "mongolfiere," the hot air balloons will
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| | Pinacoteca Nazionale (The National
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| be waiting for you next September.
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| | Picture Gallery), a home for a panorama
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| Our favorite hotel is Hotel Ferrara
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| | of paintings from the mediaeval era to
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| (+39) 0532-20.50.48, in the historical
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| | the 18th century and many other beautiful
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| center in the main piazza overlooking the
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| | museums. The most heart-rendering,
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| Castello Estense an imposing 14th century
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| | however, and one not to be missed by
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| castle and the symbol of power and
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| | those exploring their Jewish heritage is
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| refinement of the historical presence of
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| | that of the Jewish Ghetto, beautifully
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| Ferrara. There could be no better base
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| | preserved with its three synagogues.
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| for a visit of the town. Using the
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