| When travelers think of historic Italian cities, they | | | | were able to bike to the Balloon Festival. |
| often think of Florence, Rome, and Venice. But for | | | | The region of Emilia Romagna is known world-wide |
| those who know the real Italy, there are other | | | | for its food, and our dinner at the Big Night |
| incalculable riches. One such treasure is the town of | | | | Ristorante (+39 0532 242 367), a restaurant that |
| Ferrara, protected by UNESCO on the World Cultural | | | | shares an entrance and collaborative relationship with |
| Heritage list as a priceless example of a living, | | | | the hotel, was no exception. We ate a crostata |
| breathing work of Renaissance art. | | | | salata di ricotta, which is a ricotta pie topped with |
| A vast portion of the town survives from the middle | | | | grilled radicchio. This was followed by pasticcio di |
| ages and in the off-season, before the arrival of | | | | macaroni alla ferrarese con tartufo, a wonderful |
| eager tourists, a quiet morning walk in the pedestrian | | | | macceroni pasta with truffles covered by paper thin |
| center along the cobble-stoned streets and brick and | | | | and crispy pasta dough. Our second course was |
| stone palazzos will bring you back hundreds of years | | | | filetto di manzo in crosta con punte asparagi, crema |
| to a less complicated existence. Now picture a crisp | | | | di Roquefort profumato al tartufo nero, which is a |
| cool day in September and try to imagine the sky | | | | beef fillet in pastry with white asparagus tips, a hint |
| above that beautiful city filled with the dancing colors | | | | of Roquefort and black truffles. |
| of hot air balloons. First one, then five, twenty, then | | | | All dishes melted in our mouths and were some of |
| thirty. | | | | the finest I have tasted. The entire dinner was |
| Alex and I braved an actual take-off, but even from | | | | topped off with a chocolate masterpiece, dolcetto di |
| the ground, the festival is filled with sights and | | | | cioccolato fondente con crema alla vaniglia, gelato di |
| sounds that most of us are not used to experiencing | | | | pistachio e curry indiano. If you can picture this, it |
| in every day life. Imagine a flaccid piece of colored | | | | was a warm chocolate cupcake with a liquid center, |
| parachute-like material, slowly inflating to a balloon the | | | | with vanilla cream, homemade pistachio ice cream and |
| size of a three story building and then float off into | | | | Indian curry. It would be the one food I would |
| the sky amid the sound and sight of the flaming | | | | request should I have the misfortune to find myself |
| forced air entering it. Let's face it, your adrenaline is | | | | on death-row some day. The chef, Fabio Zanella, is |
| going even if you are not one the lucky ones to take | | | | sure to have been scooped up an aggressive hotelier |
| a celestial journey. It's not necessary to wait until | | | | somewhere else in the world, were it not for the |
| next year. Ferrara has many other sites, none of | | | | fact that he was born and bred in Ferrara and |
| which should be missed. But should you decide to | | | | reluctant to leave. |
| combine your trip with the experience of the | | | | Ferrara has many other sites, none of which should |
| magnificent "mongolfiere," the hot air balloons will be | | | | be missed. They include La Pinacoteca Nazionale (The |
| waiting for you next September. | | | | National Picture Gallery), a home for a panorama of |
| Our favorite hotel is Hotel Ferrara (+39) | | | | paintings from the mediaeval era to the 18th century |
| 0532-20.50.48, in the historical center in the main | | | | and many other beautiful museums. The most |
| piazza overlooking the Castello Estense an imposing | | | | heart-rendering, however, and one not to be missed |
| 14th century castle and the symbol of power and | | | | by those exploring their Jewish heritage is that of the |
| refinement of the historical presence of Ferrara. | | | | Jewish Ghetto, beautifully preserved with its three |
| There could be no better base for a visit of the | | | | synagogues. |
| town. Using the complimentary hotel bicycles, we | | | | |